![]() This router uses a coaxial cable, so it won’t take your fiber plans. The CM1000 is DOCSIS 3.1 compliant, making it perfect for future-proofing your network, and other than the ‘more’ vague statement – this would apply to your providers like CenturyLink who are hands-off with this information – it appears to be compatible with almost every gigabit plan available, including Comcast, Spectrum, and Cox. Netgear is the usual go-to, as they usually hit multiple checkboxes for a lot of people. Small, compact, and nearly compatible with every ISP, the Netgear CM1000 (or CM1000v2 in some cases) is pretty much in line with most of Netgear’s products:Īffordable, reliable, and not particularly interesting. Of course, things could change with your provider and we’ve discounted AT&T and Verizon, due to their harsh gateway needs. We’ve gone through the lists and tried to pinpoint every modem in this selection as one that would work with a majority or all brands. So while the prices on these look expensive upfront, think about never having to fork over nearly 200 dollars a year for the next several years the router remains relevant. ![]() Many providers will ‘rent’ the modem to you, charging around $8 a month for the privilege of being able to pay them to access the internet.īy swapping out the modem, you’re potentially going to alleviate yourself of a couple hundred dollars a year nearly, but ensure you contact your provider if you do make the switch! They might continue charging you and you’d want to dispute that. Providers aren’t exactly thrilled to lose a portion of control over your service, so we’ve done our best to track down official or community collated lists of modems if the ones we’ve chosen aren’t to your liking:įor starters, the main reason to go for your own modem or router is to cut down on cost. Some services like AT&T and Verizon will supply you with a modem that is required as a gateway, but you can use your own router by going through our guide. To check if your modem is compatible, head to the list below for each brand. As you’re tapping straight in, the ISP has control over what device gets the thumbs up and will often have documentation or a website dedicated to telling you which modems and routers you can use. You’ll also want to double-check with your ISP if your planned modem upgrade is actually compatible with their service. ![]() Some providers do already supply these, but because of the cost of both devices being crammed into one box, the Wi-Fi is often not on par with two individual devices. ![]() The other thing to keep an eye on is that you might want to replace the whole thing with just a singular device, combining both router and modem, but this will limit you if you plan on upgrading later down the line. Modems run with ‘channels’, which is effectively how many megabits per second they can run – each channel is the equivalent of around 42.5mb/s – so looking for a modem with as many channels as you can set you up for a gigabit connection, with 24×8 channels being the minimum to look for. This will immediately cap you at 40~mb/s, severely ruining your fancy gigabit-capable internet.ĭOCSIS essentially dictates how fast your connection can go, which as of 3.0, is around 1000mb/s, while 3.1 can do up to 10Gb/s, so if you plan on buying 3.1 capable modems, you’ll want to just know that this thing is going to last a while, as who knows when providers will be able to funnel in the fastest speeds to you?ģ.1 also allows for a 1Gbps upstream, so your uploads are about to go haywire once it hits the masses. In terms of specifications, you’ll always want to check for the DOCSIS (Data Over Cable Service Interface Specification) is 3.0 or higher and never 2.0.
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